Thursday, December 25, 2008

Sheds and the Zen of Gardening
Inspirational winter reading
December, 2008


I am not usually attracted to literature from the overtly spiritual side of gardening, but Wendy Johnson’s down-to-earth attitude and beautiful, vigorous writing style completely won me over. Gardening at the Dragon’s Gate: At Work in the Wild and Cultivated World is an extraordinary interweaving of philosophy, story-telling and first-hand garden wisdom - a rich, wide-ranging memoir stretching over more than three decades of an admirable life spent working hard and sitting zazen.

Johnson is a lay teacher of Zen meditation. She is also a gardener and activist, a fierce defender of the natural world. “The monastic path is not my way,” she writes, and she followed an unconventional path even within the Zen community in Marin County that became her home and workplace. “From the first moment, Zen practice was a field of action for me, never a safe haven from the world.” Her view of gardening is very much the same.

Johnson’s first and apparently skeptical encounter with meditation occurred in the early 1970s, when she was a young American expatriot living in Israel. The war in Vietnam raged on, and like many people of that age and time she was unhappy, restless and adrift. Meditation offered a lifeline. When she returned to America, she went first to Tassajara Zen Mountain Center and later, with the man who was to become her husband, to another branch of the San Francisco Zen Center, Green Gulch Farm, where they helped to establish a productive organic garden.

Throughout the book, Johnson quotes her Zen ‘lead teachers’ and some great, eccentric gardening mentors who helped to shape her. On the practical side, Johnson is her own gardener and a passionate advocate for deep digging, hand watering and persevering with native soil, rather than that “soul-free” stuff you buy. (How right she is!) She is terrific on soil management, composting and pests, and conflicts between Buddhism and the exigencies of gardening are wryly noted. Later chapters tell of other gardens, hunger and harvest, and the importance of real food.

In the East, the dragon represents wisdom and transformation. Another name for Green Gulch Farm is Green Dragon Temple, and the author describes Green Gulch itself as a dragon writhing up out of the sea. The dragon’s gate of the title might be simply a metaphor for the threshold between that garden and the wild world beyond. At the end of the Acknowledgements, however, Johnson brings up global warming. “My fiercest mentors remind me that this is the best and worst time to be alive. Gardening at the dragon’s gate, at the edge of consequential danger and pivotal opportunity, may we acknowledge the truth of our times and work together for the benefit of all beings.”

Gardening at the Dragon’s Gate by Wendy Johnson is published in paperback by Bantam Books, with drawings by Davis Te Selle.

Need a special place to meditate? Another West Coast writer, Debra Prinzing, has published an lovely book entitled Stylish Sheds and Elegant Hideaways. It is a series of studies, in text and photographs, of various interpretations of the garden shed idea. Not all their owners and designers call them sheds, of course: there are pavilions, tea houses, pods and even a chapel. Most are highly functional for their intended job, while a few are pure whimsy.

Some are fancy potting sheds, others are studios for writers and painters, or playhouses, repositories for collections of objects, private meditation zones or spaces for entertaining. All are stylish in one way or another, from cute to futuristic. Some are very grand, way beyond the means of most of us, but presented in all their variety they are an inspiration. Needless to say, the gardens that contain these structures are as different in style as the sheds and their owners, and vignettes of flowers, animals, kids and artifacts increase the pleasure. I challenge you to look at this book without coming up with a few ideas to enhance your outdoor space.

Stylish Sheds by Debra Prinzing is published in hardback by Potter. Lavishly illustrated with excellent photography by William Wright.

Cleaning Up

What a glorious fall we’ve had this year, and I am not just referring to the election. The crap-shoot that is Oregon weather brought not only great wine grapes and an embarrassment of apples and pears to the Willamette Valley but also fall color like we haven’t seen in decades. As November approached and I marveled at the colors in the wider landscape I’ve also appreciated the smaller, subtler effects in my own garden, as perennials, shrubs and grasses prepare for dormancy.

Like many flower gardeners, I've concluded there is too much to lose from cutting down and removing a whole season’s biomass in an October clean-up. Particularly this year. After a brief period of chilly but (at least here in town) frost-free nights, the weather has turned mild. What isn’t arrayed in yellow or scarlet is still fresh. Some ornamental grasses are still green and vibrant, while anemones, fuchsias, dahlias, cannas and the occasional rose providing mementoes of summer glories.

Late color isn’t the only thing we sacrifice in the name of clean-up. Beetles and spiders over-winter in cozy perennial clumps, and birds enjoy foraging for seed; a layer of coarse organic debris prevents compaction from rain. All the same, most of this detritus must go to the compost heap eventually, and there are both horticultural and esthetic reasons for doing it sooner rather than later.

Fallen leaves left lying on evergreen plants can result in bald spots. Diseased foliage on roses and irises and rotting, rain-soaked blooms increase your garden’s bank of fungal spores. A few plants, notably kniphofias and some irises, are easier to cut back before they rot, while others look just plain ugly beyond a certain stage of decomposition.

A bit of clean-up makes it easier to plant bulbs in perennial and shrub borders. It also makes a more attractive setting for emerging bulbs in early spring, and may help keep you out of sensitive beds in February, when the ground is wet and the emerging snouts of bulbs are especially vulnerable.

If you do go in for clean-up and prefer to do it in stages, what should be your priorities? Starting in the areas you see most often, clean up around small evergreen shrubs so you can actually enjoy them. They will also benefit from more light and improved air circulation. Remove seed heads from things that self sow wildly - it will save work later. Clean up diseased foliage and any frosted plant tops. Mulch exposed soil wherever possible.

Care of ornamental grasses can be confusing because they vary so much in their life cycles. Some change color rapidly in autumn and then collapse. Clean these up any time. Some adopt fall colors gradually and remain standing well into the new year. Cutting them down now won’t hurt them, but as long as you like the way they look, let them stand. Just remember that if you leave the clumps uncut much after January new growth will make the job a lot more difficult. By the way, I belatedly tried that trick of tying the tops of taller grasses in a bundle before cutting. It certainly makes for a neater job.

What about grasses that remain green, bronze or gray all winter? Some of these may be damaged by cutting back in fall. Leave them alone until next spring, when you may find you can remove old blades with a combing action or a sharp tug on a few blades at a time. Sedges can be deciduous or evergreen, and the latter resent being cut down in fall. Cut them to the ground in spring, when they already show signs of new growth. Other things to leave alone in fall and winter include New Zealand flax (phormium) and semi-hardy shrubs like lavender, rosemary and plumbago, and almost anything with silver foliage.

The ever-popular Butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii) is seriously invasive when it escapes into natural areas. If you grow buddleia, you should dead-head it. Since this brittle and often overbearing shrub is best treated like a giant perennial, it would seem simplest to prune it back to a couple of feet in fall, killing two birds with one stone. Unfortunately, buddleia is another of those things that may sulk and even die if it is cut back hard in fall, so I was interested to learn a while back that it does not release its seed until late winter.

Late winter is the usual time to prune buddleia, and the Forest Service official who told me about this, claimed he can trace the popular routes to yard-waste recycling yards by the copious butterfly bushes that grow along the way! He suggested cutting plants back part way in fall, discarding the seed heads before the seed shakes loose. In early spring, complete the pruning job by cutting back to a low framework of major branches.

November 2008

LATINO VEGGIES
October, 2008


I could hardly have chosen a lovelier season to visit the Churchill Community Garden. Sunflowers, tomatoes and towering corn were everywhere. So were tomatillo vines. I have never seen this Latin American staple on the plant before, and I was fascinated with the light green, busy vines sporting bright yellow flowers, and the green fruits concealed by their papery coverings.

I went to the garden to meet Sarah Cantril, executive director of Huerto de la Familia (The Family Garden), an organization that offers low-income Latino families an opportunity to grow their own vegetables and receive some garden-related education. Each family pays half the rental fee for a 600 square foot garden plot and receives donated plants, seeds, and gardening materials. The group rents plots at Churchill Community Garden, Skinner City Farm and the Youth Farm, the majority of them at Churchill. Huerto shares the Churchill site with Food for Lane County, neighborhood gardeners and the school.
Huerto meets twice a month to talk with the families about organic growing, and collaborates with other community based organizations and individuals to offer one-time classes on health related topics such as nutrition, seed saving and canning. There is also a children’s program that includes educational activities and a children’s garden. Huerto accept volunteers, including Master Gardeners. (Huerto gardens are official sites for Master Gardener candidates to put in the qualifying hours that go towards the certificate). Daniel Romero serves as site manager and garden program assistant. Now in his first year with Huerto, he helps families develop their plots and obviously loves his work. He’s a part time employee, but he lives near the Churchill garden and says “I’m always here”! Romero, who is from Puerto Rico, worked with Seeds of Change in New Mexico. He has grown and eaten a great variety of vegetables, and tries to interest the families in trying new things. Most families like to grow corn, peppers, tomatillos and – especially – tomatoes. He told me he would like to provide heirloom varieties next year, so the families can learn about saving seed, but they seem to prefer the familiar red tomatoes! Families may hold their plots from year to year, so he also encourages them to grow more food for year-round consumption.

So far Romero hasn’t found a lot of takers for cold-weather vegetables or winter squash. All the same, a close look at their gardens suggests that many of the families are open to a wide variety of crops. Green beans, onions and melons are popular. They grow epazote, an annual herb that is cooked with beans or eaten raw in tacos (Romero says it “takes away the gas”) and a variety of salad greens. At Skinner City Farm I met Inez, who is from Oaxaca, Mexico. She pointed out tepiche, an unfamiliar and tasty narrow leafed salad herb.The families also eat some familiar weeds: lambs-quarters, purslane and red root pigweed. Inez said that some families have seed sent from their people back home, for instance chilis, jicama and special varieties of corn.
Cantril introduced me to Lorenza, who has been with Huerto for five years and always has the most productive garden. She is a master seeder, and greatly respected by the other families for her skill. Her distinctive plot was divided neatly into small blocks of produce that included strawberries, onions, cucumbers, corn, beans and melons. Lorenza told me she had already put up 120 jars of tomatoes, enough to last most of the year. She reckons she puts in three or four hours a week, coming at 7pm after she finishes work. Lorenza is one of 10 Huerto families who, with other members of the Latino community, are participating in The Small Farmers Project of Lane County, a program of Huerto de la Familia which is partly funded by Heifer International. The families (who come from Mexico, Central America and Peru) are renting 14 acres on two properties off River Road which they will farm organically, raising turkeys for their own use and vegetables, strawberries and black cap raspberries for sale in the community. Carl Berg (of Berg’s Berries) serves as consultant and trainer. Cantril is excited about this enterprise, only the third Heifer project in Oregon and the first outside Portland.
Huerto de la Familia has been in operation since 1999, and received non-profit status in 2004. Huerto accepts donations, of money and in-kind. Volunteers are welcome and can help in a number of ways. For information about ways to donate or volunteer, visit www.huertodelafamilia.org or contact Huerto at: 3575 Donald St. Suite 145 D, Eugene, OR 97405. Phone: 541 255-6120 or 541 687-0819 E-mail: familygarden@efn.org

Rachel Foster of Eugene is a garden consultant and author of All About Gardens, a selection of past Eugene Weekly columns. She can be reached at rfoster@efn.org
LILIES GALORE
September, 2008

Afternoons may still be warm and pleasant, but lately there’s an undeniable chill in the morning air. It’s time to think about bulbs again, the kind you plant in fall: daffodils, tulips and ornamental onions, for example, as well as crocus and other small spring flowering bulbs. And lilies. True lilies, that is, in the genus Lilium, the aristocrats and glamour girls of the perennial garden.

On a recent Saturday morning at Eugene’s Lane County Farmers Market, Lou Westphal wondered why I didn’t write about lilies in summer, when you could go by the Buggy Crazy stall, look over the amazing flowers he brings to the market and pick out your favorite varieties. Well, I just didn’t. Luckily, you can check out pictures at www.buggycrazy.vstore.ca before visiting the market to buy his freshly dug lily bulbs.

With lilies, the fresher the better. Unlike tulips or daffodils, lily bulbs are never truly dormant and have no tough protective coat. The scaly, somewhat fragile bulbs can dry out easily, so it is best to plant them as soon as you can get them, in early to mid-fall. If you cannot plant them right away, pack them in very slightly moist sawdust in a perforated bag or box in a cool, dark place and plant them as soon as you can.

True lilies grow in temperate places all over the world. Several are native to the Pacific Northwest. While these and many other species are beautiful and rewarding, the easiest, most adaptable lilies for gardens are among the numerous man-made hybrids. The bulk of these fall into three groups: Asiatic, Oriental and Trumpet lilies.

Originally bred for the cut-flower trade in the mid-1900s., most Asiatics were scentless and had up-facing flowers on stems up to four feet. Subsequent breeding efforts have resulted in flowers that face out as well as up, and flowers in the reflexed, ‘Turk’s cap’ style which is common among naturally occurring lilies. Asiatics are the available in an almost unlimited color range (there are no blue lilies) and they are tough, easy and relatively inexpensive, a good choice for novice lily growers.

Oriental hybrids and Trumpet lilies are generally large-flowered, four to six feet tall and later blooming than Asiatics, which follow hard on the heels of late tulips. Orientals have exotic-looking, broadly open flowers in white, pink or rose that are often scented. The very popular ‘Stargazer’, though only about three feet tall, is otherwise typical of Oriental hybrids. Sumptuous Trumpet lilies and Orienpets (Trumpet-Oriental hybrids) provide a range of flower forms with subtle coloring and some heady fragrances.

The bulk of the lilies you’ll find at Buggy Crazy are bred by Westphal and his partner Lisa Hunt at their place in Lebanon. They select for “big, stout stems and a high bud count”. Do they really stand up without staking, even the six footers? “Yep,” as long as they have adequate light. Westphal and Hunt also breed to extend blooming times. They have achieved some later Asiatics and earlier Orientals but not, as yet, lilies that bloom later into fall: their last Orientals bloom about the same time as the latest species, Lilium speciosum var. rubrum.

Lilies require at least half a day of sun or strong indirect light. Trumpet and Asiatic lilies will grow in full sun, but the petals of Orientals are susceptible to sunburn and benefit from afternoon shade. Lilies should be planted in well-drained soil. With the exception of a few species, they need consistent moisture throughout the growing season, but wet, heavy soils can cause root rot. Many lilies send out roots from the stem, so plant the bulbs with at least three or four inches of soil above the bulb. Feed with a balanced fertilizer mix as you would perennials, but don’t let any fertilizer (or manure, unless very well rotted) come in contact with the bulbs. A leafy mulch is great.

I lived for many years where the soil was unsuitable for growing lilies, so I felt intimidated by them. But they have proved easy enough to grow in my Eugene garden – until voles devour the bulbs or I let the stems get shaded out by big perennials and shrubs! If this may happen in your garden, I suggest you grow lilies in large containers, where they will multiply contentedly and perform brilliantly for years. In the garden, interplant lilies with low growing, clumping plants that leave plenty of air and light around the leafy lily stems.

Asiatic hybrid bulbs will be available from Buggy Crazy in September, Orientals and Trumpets in October. A small selection of lilies native to the West Coast, including our local Lilium columbianum, should appear towards the end of September. If you can’t catch Buggy Crazy at the Saturday Farmer’s Market in Eugene, find him at the Mushroom Festival at Mt. Pisgah (Sunday, October 26). You can also buy bulbs on the website above and they will be shipped to you. Another great Pacific Northwest source of unique lilies is The Lily Garden in Vancouver, Washington (www.thelilygarden.com).

Rachel Foster of Eugene is a garden consultant and author of All About Gardens, a selection of past Eugene Weekly columns. She can be reached at rfoster@efn.org
EAT MORE KALE
It’s too good to pass up
August, 2008

No-one needs to be told that dark green leafy vegetables are loaded with nutrients, but not everyone likes kale, and that’s too bad. Kale is one of the hardiest and most nutritious members of the cabbage family and by far the easiest to grow. It can also be harvested almost any time of year. For anyone with a dream of self-sufficiency--or just an urge to supplement the family diet with extra-nourishing greens--kale seems too good to pass up.

Those of us who love it eat kale all year round, but what makes kale especially valuable is its availability in late fall, winter and early spring. Spring-sown kale can be harvested, leaf by leaf, late summer through winter. You start with the lower leaves. Cut, don't pull, each leaf, leaving a nubbin of leaf stalk, to protect the buds in the leaf axils. Buds should sprout in early spring of the following year, and they make delicious eating.

A fresh crop of kale for fall-through-spring harvest should be sown in June or early July, but later sowings are also possible(at least 6 weeks before frost). Nick Routledge is experimenting with different varieties and sowing times for the School Garden Project of Lane County. Plants from late sowings won’t make big plants by fall, he says, but they will winter over and bulk up for harvest in March and April, a time when fresh, local greens are hard to come by.

Nurturing direct-sown seedlings through the hot weeks of July and August (even supposing you have room for them amomg your summer bounty) can be a challenge, so many gardeners raise or purchase starts, planting them out after the weather cools and some garden space becomes available. The little plants will still need abundant water and protection from slugs. Row covers help exclude cabbage loopers, though kale seems less attractive to loopers than other cabbage crops.

Different varieties of kale vary in flavor, heat tolerance and many other qualities. Although most seed catalogs don’t make this clear, it is helpful to know that there are two main groups of kale. Scotch or curly kale, such as the varieties Redbor and Winterbor, grow two to three feet tall, the stems loosely clad with leaves that facilitate leaf by leaf harvest. Although Scotch kales grow sweeter and more tender in cold weather, some people still find them uappealing. More popular (though still in the same group) are laciniata or black kale varieties such as Toscano, with long, dark green puffy-looking leaves. Mature plants look like little palm trees.

The second important kale group, sometimes called napus kales, includes Siberian and Russian varieties. They are more compact, with a short central stem, and tend to be milder tasting and more tender. Young napus kale leaves are preferred for tossing in a salad mix. Winter Red, a popular Russian type from Territorial Seed Company, is purplish gray and frilly, with beautiful red ribs. White Russian is green with deeply cut edges. Both originated here in Oregon, which appears to be a hot-bed of napus kale selection.

Napus kales are readily available as open pollinated, not hybrid, seed. That means you can save seed from your own plants and expect the progeny to be similar in quality to the parents. These kales (Brassica napa, or B. oleracea var. fimbriata) are genetically distinct from Scotch kale (B. oleracea acephala). While Scotch will interbreed with many other members of the cabbage family, napus kales cross only with rutabaga. If you and your neighbors don’t grow rutabagas (or at least don’t let them flower!) selecting and growing kale from your own seed should be a cinch. Territorial Seed sells Wild Garden Kales, a mix of Russian and Siberian types that would make a good starting point.

Kale is generally biennial, flowering in spring of the second year and ripening seed in summer or fall. For useful information on saving kale seed, see Gardening When it Counts by Steve Solomon. For a thorough account of seed saving and plant breeding in all its aspects, see Carol Deppe’s book Breed Your Own Vegetable Varieties: The Gardener’s and Farmer’s Guide to Plant Breeding and Seed Saving.

Rachel Foster of Eugene does not currently grow kale but she eats a lot of it. Contact her at rfoster@efn.org for referrals to the people on the cutting edge of kale culture.
PATIO CHAMPS
July, 2008

This year’s unusually cold, slow spring was hard on both gardeners and the plant trade. Now that summer is finally here, it’s a joy to see great banks of color in the stores, tempting procrastinating gardeners and reminding us that it’s never too late to stuff things in containers.

I love to grow plants in pots but I don’t invest a great deal of time and money in them. I believe the back bone of a pot garden should be dependable, and I expect mine to deliver for three or four months with only basic care. So while I like to try a few new things each year, I mostly rely on favorites I know I can count on.

Plants that easily over-winter, with or without shelter of some kind, save money and time. Two standouts in the bulb category are lilies and agapanthus (Lily of the Nile). My favorite lilies for containers are the Asiatics. They come in a huge range of colors, subtle or gaudy, and produce spectacular results in early summer, long before the many heat-craving plants reach their full glory.

By the time the petals fall from Asiatic lilies, agapanthus plants are full of buds. My pick for pots is the dwarf variety ‘Peter Pan’. I like the tidy foliage and clear mid-blue flowers. Peter Pan will live for several years without division in a 14 inch pot, small enough to move to the garage with relative ease. (Lilies are as winter-hardy as the pot they grow in, but potted agapanthus are best moved to a dry, frost-free location).

Provided they live in frost-resistant containers, hardy shrubs and trees can live outside year-round. Small Japanese maples and hydrangeas live for years without re-potting if you don’t over-fertilize, which makes them a very good investment. Hydrangeas are classic, and a great stand-by for shady patios. I prefer to prune them only lightly (in April) so they have many modestly-sized flower heads rather than a few huge mops on straight, cane-like stems.

Roses are almost as easy, provided you match the variety with an appropriate pot size. Small floribundas, polyanthas and the smallest of the modern shrub or landscape roses are particularly good for pots under 20 inches. My current favorite is ‘Little White Pet’. It has grown in the same 16 inch pot for several years, undisturbed except by spring pruning. I remove spent flower clusters during the summer, and it is almost always in flower.

Once they get going, fuchsias bloom incessantly until frost. Many are winter hardy, but my favorite upright fuchsias for containers are the frost-tender ‘Gartenmeister Bonstedt’ and a handful of close relatives, all with tubular flowers. In ‘Gartenmeister’ the flowers are orange-red, and contrast with the dark leaves beautifully. Fuchsias bring hummingbirds to the deck and patio. Most upright types like at least partial sun.

Certain grasses and sedges look striking in pots. Carex flagellifera is fun in the sun, pouring down from a tall container. Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) - green or gold, with or without stripes - is hard to beat for shade. (It is, alas, deciduous.) Like most grasses It looks best on it’s own. Plant three together for a good immediate effect, or use a new one in a mixed pot, then move it up to its own pot next year.

Coleus is an old stand-by that has made a come-back in lots of nice new shades. It is useful in cooler Eugene gardens where many colorful leafy tropicals don’t perform well. But don’t try to plant it before the weather warms!. Coleus enjoys light or partial shade, and chartreuse varieties really light up a shady pot garden. Use it for contrast with grasses and hostas. (It’s a lot easier to keep slugs and snails off your hostas if you grow them in pots.)

A spiky silver thing from New Zealand named astelia was an impulse buy. when I failed to find a place for it in the garden I put it in a pot on the deck. It over-wintered under the eaves next to the front door, where it has remained for more than two years, spurned by deer and proving to be amazingly shade tolerant. It will also grow in sun, but is more silvery and beautiful in shade. Astelia isn’t easy to find, but I saw some recently at Dancing Oaks Nursery near Monmouth, OR (503 838 6058).

Some miscellaneous items: Diascia and Swan River daisy (brachycome) are wonderfully sturdy pot fillers and spillers that won’t poop out the minute you fall behind with the watering. Neither will coral bells (heuchera) with their colorful and beautifully marked leaves. And while most sages demand full sun to bloom well, the annual salvia ‘Lady in Red’ prefers light or partial shade. It is also one of the few annuals I know that deer don’t usually eat. It must be the stinky leaves.

Rachel Foster of Eugene is a garden consultant and author of All About Gardens, a selection of past Eugene Weekly columns. She can be reached at rfoster@efn.org
GRASS INTO GARDENS
June, 2008

I first met Charlotte Anthony on a vast expanse of bark mulch high above Washington Street, facing west. I arrived with my camera and a notebook (and, luckily, a hat) intending to observe Victory Gardens for All in action. But Charlotte immediately put me to work with the others, clearing away mulch and hauling compost in a bucket brigade, as she directed the transformation of this recently cleared area into a productive vegetable garden. Among the eight or so helpers at work that afternoon were the slightly bemused owners, perhaps wondering just what they were getting into.

Charlotte is the driving force behind Victory Gardens for All (VGA), a small but dedicated group that seeks to turn all available space into vegetable beds. If you have space for a garden but lack the knowledge or time to get started, just let Charlotte know. She’ll soon be over with tools, a work crew, veggie starts and her own abundant energy. If you can afford it, you will be asked to pay $50. If you are able bodied, you (with a couple of friends, if possible) will help put in your garden and – a crucial point – undertake to ‘pay forward’ by participating in the transformation of someone else’s yard.

Once you have a garden you are pretty much on your own, but Charlotte’s methods may improve your chances of success. After excavating narrow paths between beds about 4 feet wide, piling the soil on top of the beds, she adds a small amount of compost (for a new garden, about 5 gallons for a 5 x 4 foot bed) and a source of minerals such as ¼ cup of Azomite. Then she applies mycorrhizal fungi and ‘effective microorganisms’ (EM). “I have never had a problem with fertility after using these,” says Charlotte, who has experience in soil work and bioremediation. “I believe they help bring nitrogen in from the air as well as freeing what is fixed in the soil.” She claims she has turned pure orange clay subsoil to 6 inches of black, friable, topsoil with these two additives.

Growing vegetables is hot right now. On any given day this spring in many neighborhoods you are sure to spot someone tilling up a chunk of the front lawn, and there is now a lottery for community garden plots that once went vacant. All this digging may be spurred by health concerns and rising food costs, and farmers markets have introduced many people to the taste and texture of really fresh food. VGA, like similar organizations around the world, believes organic home gardens can increase local food security and help combat climate change.

Charlotte is a strong and determined woman, but I worry she may wear herself out. Upcoming projects are posted to an e-mail list, with mixed results. A couple of gardens have been postponed for want to labor, and at one of last week’s gardens (loaned for her own use, in a friend’s beautiful back yard) I found her working by herself, the promised help having not materialized. I asked her if participation in the labor force has been a problem. “Once I let go of the ‘you said you’d be here today’ thing it’s been OK, ” she said, with a laugh. The proof, of course, is the number of gardens she’s accomplished.

As of last week, VGA had installed upward of 220 vegetable gardens in the Eugene-Springfield area since November 2007, including one for Carolyn Crockett, who read a story about VGA in the newspaper. Carolyn is physically challenged and needed elevated beds – a first for VGA. She has very little food money and says this is her only chance for fresh green vegetables. The impressive 20 by 4 foot beds were built of reclaimed lumber with volunteer labor and filled with donated soil. Carolyn was all smiles as the soil went in.

Joann Ernst (recently elected to the EWEB board, if the name seems familiar) saw a flyer at the ELAW conference. Joann already had a small garden area on difficult clay soil. VGA ripped out some old raised beds, covered the area with cardboard Joann had collected, and laid new soil in Charlotte’s pleasing design of concentric, curving beds. Then they planted starts of greens and potatoes and sowed some seeds. Joann would have had a garden anyway, but at 20 by 20 feet “this is way bigger,” she says. Now, a month later, she is eating greens and strawberries from her garden. She wants me to stress how great it feels to plant gardens and see them grow.

For information about Victory Gardens for All meetings or to request a garden, phone Jessica at 686-2516, e-mail victorygardensforall@gmail.com, or visit
www.victorygardensforall.org.
NEARLY NATIVE
MAY, 2008

Those evergreen bushes now breaking out in tufts of vivid blue are ceanothus. Californians call them blueblossom, California lilac or wild lilac, although ceanothus is nothing like the familiar, fragrant true lilac. As our climate grows warmer and, intermittently, drier, ceanothuses are valued more and more for their low water requirements. If you can provide space, good drainage and full sun there is probably a ceanothus that’s right for your garden.

Most species of ceanothus occur in Oregon, California and Mexico. Those commonly found growing between the Cascades and the Oregon coast have white flowers, not blue. They are rarely planted except in native gardens and can be difficult to find. (Doak Creek Nursery is one source.) Varnishleaf ceanothus (Ceanothus velutinus var. hookeri) and buckbrush (C. cuneatus) are evergreen. Deciduous red-stemmed ceanothus (C. sanguineus) with purple stems and abundant creamy white flowers in June is recommended as a butterfly host plant.

Some of the most exciting blue-flowered species may not be reliably hardy in Western Oregon. Those that are include a couple of useful evergreen ground covers and some showy garden hybrids. Prostrate ceanothus types vary from extremely flat (and not very weed proof) to spreading mounds 2-5 feet deep and 12 feet wide or more. Among the latter, the widely available ‘Point Reyes’ (Ceanothus gloriosus) is fabulous for covering large banks quickly. The one inch leaves are tough and spiny, the flowers light blue. It needs little or no summer water once established. ‘Heart’s Desire’ is a more compact variety with a 6 foot spread.

Until recently, the most familiar evergreen ceanothus cultivar was ‘Victoria’, a fast-growing plant 6-8 feet tall with glossy one-inch leaves and abundant clear blue flowers. In recent years I’ve been seeing more and more of ‘Julia Phelps’ and ‘Dark Star’. Both have deep blue flowers and leaves smaller than ‘Victoria’. All three have some degree of resistance to browsing by deer. (The resistance of any ceanothus to browsing is highly relative. Let’s just say that those with tiny, tough leaves are most likely to grow fast enough to stay ahead.)

Non-prostrate ceanothus varieties rarely stay below 6 or 7 feet and are often considerably wider. Books says ceanothus resent disturbance, and that can include pruning. Sunset Western Garden Book recommends you avoid cutting off branches more than one inch in diameter, and the authors suggest you control growth by pinching back shoot tips during the growing season. This may keep you busy. Light, regular shearing is definitely an option with easy going varieties such as ‘Victoria’ and ‘Joyce Coulter’ On the whole, though, it’s best to adopt one of two strategies: either expect the plant to take up lots of space and revel in it; or plant one just for the hell of it and replace it when it gets too big.

Ceanothus x delilianus is the moniker for a group of hybrids between a blue-flowered Mexican species and New Jersey tea, a hardy, deciduous plant with low-key white bloom that occurs in parts of east and central North America. The best known offspring of this cross, named ‘Gloire de Versailles’, has long been popular in Europe. In Britain, where heat loving plants need all the help they can get, it is often trained on a warm wall to encourage it. ‘Gloire’ is a taller, more open grower than ‘Victoria’ and kin; the leaves are much larger and the powder blue flowers occur in larger clusters over a longer period. They are fragrant, too.

I’ve been growing a ceanothus of this type in a tub for two years. So far it is only about four feet tall. I know it will get too tall eventually but I’m enjoying it very much in the meantime. A container provides the excellent drainage that ceanothus love, and this one kept most of its leaves through the winter. The only other ceonothus I have at present (also in a pot) is named C. x pallidus ‘Marie Simon’. Hardy and fully deciduous, it has red stems and pleasing light pink flowers.

Ceanothus tends to be fast growing and short-lived. Longevity no doubt relates to soil type, drainage and watering regimes. To keep plants looking their best through the heat of summer they should be watered at least once a month. Many garden hybrids tolerate more regular watering, but most don’t need it.

Three stellar plant sales occur in May, two on the same day. All offer a mix of commercial vendors and donated plants.
17th annual Hardy Plant Sale. Saturday, May 10, 9am-2pm at the Lane County Fairgrounds in the Auditorium Building. More than 25 specialty vendors. All kinds of perennials, trees, shrubs and garden art. Courtesy of The Willamette Valley Hardy Plant Group. A portion of the proceeds helps fund activities of other 501(c)(3) groups.
The Oregon Plant Fair. Saturday, May 10, 9 am-2 pm at Alton Baker Park.
“Fabulous plants, incredible art, music, food, fun” brought to you by Avid Gardeners and the Willamette District Garden Clubs. A portion of the proceeds will benefit GrassRoots Garden, Food for Lane County.
Mt Pisgah Arboretum Wildflower Festival and Plant Sale. Sunday, May 18, 10am-4 pm at Mt Pisgah Arboretum. A large variety of plants, including many native species.

Rachel Foster of Eugene is a garden consultant and author of All About Gardens, a selection of past Eugene Weekly columns. She can be reached at rfoster@efn.org
THE DIRT ON CARROTS
Sweet, crunchy and not always orange
April, 2008

Eat those carrots! They are very, very good for you and yes, they do help you see in the dark, thanks to beta carotene. Carrots are loaded with other vitamins and minerals, as well as dietary fiber. And they come pretty much ready to eat. All you have to do is scrub them.

Descended from wild carrot (Daucus carota, aka Queen Anne’s Lace) the sweet, fat and tender garden carrot we know today appeared in Europe just a few centuries ago. Modern carrots come in a variety of shapes, from long and slim with an extreme taper to practically spherical, like a big radish. Most carrots are the familiar orange, but other colors include cream, scarlet and blackish purple. One old heirloom is named Violet of Syria.

“It is easy to grow carrot tops; the edible part is not quite so easy,” said Steve Solomon in Gardening when it Counts. Growing straightish carrots that don’t crack calls for rapid but steady growth. That requires a dependable, uniform supply of moisture and adequate fertility in the soil. Not too much fertility, though: excessive nitrogen produces big, leafy tops and meager roots. The first challenge to growing carrots well, however, is thorough soil prepartion.

At the Grassroots Garden, Merry Bradley oversees an impressive carrot crop. “We prepare our loose, deep beds by spading as deeply as possible and removing all small stones, debris and stick, anything that would cause the fragile tap roots to twist or fork. Next we amend with lime, alfalfa meal, rock phosphate and kelp meal which we work into the bed thoroughly and evenly. We never add manure to carrot beds as this would create hairy looking carrots and who wants hairy carrots!”

If your own soil is not carrot-ready now, work on it through early spring and sow some late carrots. Royal Chantenay or a blunt-tipped Nantes type such as Nelson seem to be best if your soil is less than perfect. Short, radish-shaped carrots are another good choice for heavy or shallow soil, and they do well in container gardens, too. Longer varieties will grow in containers two feet deep, while round varieties can grow in containers one foot deep.

Carrots are usually seeded directly in the garden, since they don’t transplant well. The seed is tiny, so mixing it with screened compost makes it easier to disperse. Ted Purdy, farmer at the Youth Farm in Springfield, seeds carrots with a seed dropper at two inch intervals or less so he doesn’t have to thin the seedlings. He then covers the seed with about a quarter inch of fine compost, screened from discarded, unused potting soil, to prevent the clay-loam soil forming a crust that could interfere with germination. Carrot seed is slow.

Back at Grassroots, Bradley describes what happens next: “After lightly tamping down the soil in the furrows, we cover the whole bed with black woven shade cloth, which we secure with ground staples at the sides of the beds. On top of that we staple over- head soaker hose. We water lightly, daily, until the seeds have germinated and plants are an inch tall. The shade cloth keeps the ground evenly moist and prevent it from crusting and drying out. Once the carrots are about an inch tall we remove the shade cloth.”

Purdy seeds carrots under plastic from late February to mid-March and then, without protection, April through mid-July. He likes Nelson and Mokum best. “Both are munching type carrots but Nelson comes in 10 to 15 days later and is a slightly tougher carrot with good top strength, easy to harvest. Mokum, however, is very sweet,” he says. ‘Munching carrots’ are sweet and delicate but lack the fiber needed for storage. Try Chantenay types for carrots that will keep. (In September, Purdy sows Merida, for harvest next May and June.)

If you don’t space your seed, you will need to thin the plants for proper spacing. Thin when very young (the first month) to about half inch intervals, then continue as they grow. Carrots should nearly touch at maturity, so their expected size determines spacing. Bradley aims for big carrots and thins to four inches between plants. Needless to say, you can eat the thinnings. Mound soil over the carrots’ shoulders as they grow, to prevent the tops turning green.

Spring-sown carrots can be pulled through August. Summer carrots mature in fall and can stay in ground. Bradley saves two beds to harvest after they’ve seen freezing temperatures for a whole week, usually in November or December. They are pulled all at once, on Carrot Harvest Day, a fun family event. Cool temperatures turn the starches in the carrots to sugar, she says, making the carrots very sweet and crunchy.
PEST PATROL
March, 2008


People who keep ducks are absolutely passionate about them. Just say the word duck and stand back: you’ll release an avalanche of words. “Ducks seem to be much happier critters than about anything,” Corvallis resident Carol Deppe told me. “It’s almost impossible to stay down or depressed if you just sit for a while with a bunch of foraging ducks.” In addition to their sunny personality, ducks lay eggs – and foraging ducks are superb at pest control.

Ducks eat slugs, snails and their eggs. They also eat sowbugs and insects (ducks can snatch bugs out of the air) and insect larvae and pupae, including those of mosquitoes. Much of this is true of chickens, too, but their fans say ducks are more enthusiastic foragers than chickens, and chickens are harder on the garden. Ducks graze on tender grass, just like geese, and probe in wet soil and mud with their sensitive bills, but they don’t scratch in the soil the way chickens do. Ducks are better adapted to wet weather (they love it!) and show better disease resistance.

Deppe keeps a flock of about 35 ducks, mostly Anconas and Golden Cascades. She is a great source of duck wisdom. “I had to figure out for myself how to manage ducks and vegetable gardens,” she says. Ducks will eat just about anything green and will poop on everything lower than one foot. But while many gardeners simply let ducks in the garden in fall and winter to clean up before planting time, Deppe says “ducks in a pen have a protective effect on a nearby garden, because slugs like to eat duck poop even better than plants” and will crawl into the duck pen to get it, with predictable results.

Deppe has learned that a two-foot fence - a height the gardener can step over - is adequate to pen ducks in a particular area in the day time, or to protect vulnerable greens. (Protecting ducks from their many predators is quite another matter.) And if you let ducks into a part of the garden where they don’t normally go (to combat a plague of cabbage worm, perhaps) “They’ll go for the protein first. Then they’ll go for the salad.” So keep an eye on them, and take them out after 15-20 minutes. For a treat, ducks LOVE tomatoes. “Grow extra for them – regular size, cut up, not cherry types.”

Hen ducks of most varieties are noisier than chickens; it’s the hens that quack. “If neighbors are 50 yards away, they are unlikely to even know you have ducks unless they’re visible,” Deppe says. If you have neighbors a few yards away, she suggests some of the quieter breeds. “Khaki Campbells, Welsh Harlequins, and Anconas are all pretty quiet” she says. Female Call ducks, a bantam breed so called because they were bred to be live decoys, are noisiest. Drakes of any breed don’t quack. They can get by without females and are adequate for pest control.

Muscovy ducks come closest to being mute. Unlike most domestic breeds, they are not descended from mallards, and neither sex quacks. Eugene duck fan Jenya Lemeshow says they just chirp and hiss. She adds that these rugged ducks are great foragers.

Deppe’s Anconas, classified as a mediumweight breed, are perhaps the best foragers in their weight class. Bantam breeds (including Call ducks and East Indies) and lightweight breeds (including Runners and Campbells) are all excellent foragers. 2 or 3 Bantam class or lightweight ducks should provide good pest control in a small city lot, though small-billed Calls can’t eat the larger slugs and snails. Unlike most domestic ducks, which only attempt flight when desperate, bantams can really fly, so clip their wings yearly if their daytime quarters are open to the sky.

Khaki Campbells and Anconas are the best layers. If eggs are important, make sure you get your ducks from a reputable grower with a good egg-laying strain. And be prepared to feed high-protein food and provide some artificial light in fall and winter if you want eggs year-round. Deppe finds the dim lights in their night quarters are enough to keep her ducks laying. But with natural daylight only, natural forage and some grain, Campbells still beat out other breeds at egg production.

What do ducks need? Food, water and shelter. And other ducks. “Ducks are flock animals. Keeping just one is cruel,” Deppe says. Two is minimal; three or more is best, and hen ducks should out-number the drakes. Deppe also considers it cruel to keep ducks without water to swim and bathe in. They obviously enjoy it, and they can’t keep themselves clean without it. A plastic ‘kiddie pool’ is adequate for a few ducks. For a larger flock, multiple kiddie pools are a good solution. Water attracts predators, so keep night quarters away from ponds and pools if possible.

Although ducks might prefer to be outside day and night, they need to be housed at night in a shed or securely covered pen than will keep them safe from predators. In addition to hawks and foxes, raccoons are bad news. They can climb fences and open simple latches. Ducks need some solid cover in daytime, too, for shade and protection from hawks, but that can be as simple as a propped-up sheet of plywood. Very little equipment is needed for adult ducks. Deppe uses sturdy two-gallon buckets both for feed (corn or wheat grain, oyster shell and broiler crumbles) and for clean water. Buckets must be deep enough for ducks to submerge their heads and clean their eyes and nostrils.

Light woodland and orchards make ideal duck runs. What about ducks in flower gardens? My sister and niece in Devon, England both keep Calls, in fairly small gardens. Both say that, with enough space, small ducks don't do any real harm. The muddier it gets the more they enjoy the slug hunt, though, and “When they are confined in wet weather, they do wreck the grass by dabbling in it,” says my niece. “When they have access to the whole lawn, the damage is hardly noticeable and the grass survives.” Mature plants don’t seem to be bothered, but ”Baby plants may need protection from beaks moving the soil around too roughly and not allowing roots to develop.”

A friend of my niece keeps Runners. Along with the usual testimonial to the anti-depressant qualities of ducks (and Runners in particular are incredibly entertaining) she too tells me that her grass survives. “After persistent rain you can have whole rivers of mud. I have always found, though, that the grass grows back after just a few dry days. Of course they eat everything in and around ponds edges! I've just made a barrier to stop them raiding our frog pond, to give the spawn, tadpoles and plants a chance.”

Most raisers don’t sell sexed ducklings, so be prepared to dispose of excess males – perhaps to a friend who wants a quiet flock. Adult ducks are sometimes offered in newspaper ads and internet lists. Don’t expect anyone to give away adult ducks, though: Deppe points out that raising one can cost $20 in feed alone. And check your local land use regulations about keeping fowl in town.

Carol Deppe leads workshops entitled the Tao of Ducks. The next one is March 9th. For details, contact Cheri Clark and Harry MacCormack, Institute of BioWisdom, Sunbow Farm, Corvallis, 541-929-5782 or www.sunbowfarm.org
Another indispensable resource: Storey's Guide to Raising Ducks by Dave Holderread, Storey Communications, Inc., 2001, available from Amazon (and local libraries). For great pictures of different breeds, visit www.holderreadfarm.com

Enjoying Duck Eggs
When it comes to egg laying, ducks of the right sort are the most dependable and productive of all fowl. Their eggs are excellent, with a flavor even richer than a free-range chicken egg. Some people say they don’t like the taste or texture of duck eggs. Carol Deppe believes this is because people don’t know how to cook them right. She says the albumens in duck eggs set at a lower temperature, and require gentler cooking than are typically used for hens’ eggs. She gave me a hard-cooked egg to prove her point. It was tender and delicious. with no off-taste of any kind. Had it been cooked like a chicken egg it would have been over-done and sulfurous. To hard cook duck eggs (preferably two or three weeks old) she places the cold eggs in a big pot of unsalted water, brings it to a rolling boil, then removes it from the heat and lets it sit, covered, for exactly 16 minutes. She shells the eggs hot or air-cooled; don’t plunge them in cold water.
When baking, Deppe uses duck eggs just like chickens’, but because her duck eggs are larger she measures by volume rather than egg number. In recipes, four chicken eggs to a cup is standard. Do the math.

Another valuable tip: Duck eggs may be fine for people with an allergy to chicken eggs.
ADORABLE DAPHNES
MARCH, 2008

On mild days in early spring you catch the sweet scent of daphne all over town. Winter daphne (Daphne odora) is a wildly popular shrub where it is hardy, and that includes protected spots in Western Oregon. When the purple flower buds open at last to reveal pale interiors, the fragrance can be so intense that some people (myself included) find it a bit overwhelming at close quarters. The evergreen leaves are shiny and relatively large, and in the form most often encountered they have narrow yellow margins. A variety with pure white flowers and plain green leaves occasionally shows up.

This winter was hard on Daphne odora, providing a very visible lesson in where it prefers to grow. Specimens exposed to wind and sun turned yellow and dropped many leaves, whereas those up against a north wall or shaded by evergreens were mostly in tip top condition. It may be that the larger a daphne’s leaf the more shade it prefers and tolerates. The rhododendron garden at Hendricks Park boasts Daphne bholua, an unusual, upright species that has leaves even bigger than winter daphne’s. Judging by the abundant January bloom, it is perfectly happy in its rather sunless spot.

While winter daphne remains a favorite, in recent years it has become easier to find a variety of daphnes with different blooming times and greater resistance to cold. Compact, evergreen shrubs with fragrant flowers sound like a sure hit, so why did it take so long? Many species of daphne will flourish in sun as well as in bright indirect light. Just don’t bother to plant any daphne in a windy or waterlogged location, and remember that more daphnes are killed by over-watering in summer than any other factor. In my experience, dry conditions in summer and overall good drainage are more important then the soil type, although according to Sunset’s Western Garden Book, winter daphne prefers a neutral soil to an acid one.

Garland daphne (Daphne cneorum) is adorable, with tiny leaves and sweetly scented, deep pink flowers in spring. It is less than a foot high, but considerably wider. This is really a rock plant, so plant it above a retaining wall with drainage holes, or on a gritty berm. Daphnes have a reputation for being short lived, and this one is especially prone to sudden daphne death. Be stingy with the summer water, and enjoy it while it lasts.

Other daphnes are noticeably more resilient. One of my favorites, Daphne tangutica, is one tough daphne and it blooms from late spring onward. I have three specimens, none in good soil, and two of them (one in sun, one in indirect light) receive almost no water in summer, though I sometimes set a leaky gallon jug of water on the roots of the one in the sun. This species grows three or four feet high and is notable for bearing fragrant flowers and red fruit simultaneously through late summer and fall. Very dark green leaves are about an inch long. D. retusa is similar but more compact.

Deciduous daphnes have their own kind of charm. February daphne (Daphne mezereum) is an upright grower with large, pale green leaves. Deep red-purple (or creamy white) flowers smother the stems before the foliage appears. (They are followed by berries that are reputedly poisonous.) Sun-loving D. caucasica has small gray-green leaves and tiny pinky white flowers and is almost never out of bloom. Lilac daphne (D. gengkwa), outstanding for the sheer beauty of its generous April bloom, is virtually scentless. You can’t have it all.

Daphne x burkwoodii (a semi-deciduous cross between cneorum and caucasica) makes a compact cushion about two feet high and slightly wider. ‘Carol Mackie’ is a pretty variegated form that seems to be easy to grow. Other, newer variegated daphnes, though more spectacular, can be decidedly touchy.

I think all daphnes tolerate pruning, so long as it is little and often, and done in spring and early summer when the plant is in active growth. On the other hand, daphnes do not appreciate you messing with their roots, and attempts to transplant large, established specimens are rarely successful. D. tangutica grows easily from seed; most others must be propagated from cuttings.
Well-grown nursery specimens can be expensive, so it may be worth seeking out small ones. Community plant sales are a likely venue. Coming up in Eugene in April and May are: Destination Imagination Plant Sale, Saturday April 19th; The Hardy Plant Group Spring Plant Sale, Saturday May 10th; and The Oregon Plant Fair, also May 10th.

Rachel Foster of Eugene is a garden consultant and author of All About Gardens, a selection of past Eugene Weekly columns. She can be reached at rfoster@efn.org
BARE-ROOT FRUIT
February, 2008


Need more fruit in your life? Now could be the time to take action. The best time to buy many fruit-bearing plants is February through March. That’s when dormant fruit trees, grape vines and berry canes appear on the market without soil around their roots, and you’ll find a larger selection the earlier you shop.

Container-grown and balled-and-burlapped plants can be acquired and planted just about any time in the growing season, and they have made bare-root planting more or less obsolete for the average gardener. Other than bulbs and tubers, about the only plants that commonly appear bare-root for retail are fruit trees, cane fruit and roses.

Why should you bother with them? For one thing, bare-root plants are considerable less expensive than plants growing in soil. If you are planting a woodlot or an orchard and need a large number of plants, the money saved will easily outweigh the convenience of containers. Bare-root plants are also lighter and easier to transport (one reason they are cheaper) and once in the ground they establish quickly, with fewer subsequent root problems than plants grown in containers.

Bare-root plants do require careful handling. Those naked roots are vulnerable to breakage, freezing and drying, so once you have the plants they need to go in the ground promptly. If the ground is frozen or saturated, all is not lost – you can ‘heel them in’ (lay them at an angle in a trench filled with loose soil) or store them with the roots in a damp mulch pile. For one or two trees, a large nursery pot full of moist sawdust should be adequate. It’s a good idea to snip off any damaged roots and soak the root mass in a water for a few hours before you plant.

Planting bare-root is not that different from planting any shrub or tree. The hole should be no deeper than the roots of your plant, but wide enough to accommodate the roots easily and still allow room to pack soil around them without leaving airspaces. Sunset Western Garden Book recommends making the hole wider at the bottom than at ground level, but this isn’t practical in all soils. Just don’t jam the roots into a cone-shaped hole with a pointy bottom!

Once you have a nice, roomy, roughly flat-bottomed hole, build up a firm little mountain of soil in the middle of it, to give the roots something to rest on. Arrange the roots over the built-up mound and check the planting depth. The place where the bottom of the trunk divides into roots should be at or very slightly above soil level. Backfill the hole only with what you took out of it. Don’t amend. If you soil is very hard or clayey, you can break up the soil over an area several times the width of the root mass, turn in some compost and then dig your hole.

Fruit trees should be staked. When planting bare-root you can drive in a stake a few inches from the trunk, before the planting hole is quite full, so you won’t risk damage to the roots. Tie the trunk in two places with a strip of T-shirt or something else with give in it. Be sure to water thoroughly after planting, even if it’s raining. Remove the stake at the end of the first growing season or the following spring.

Fruit trees are mostly grafted on the roots of some other, closely related plant. Which rootstock your fruit tree is grafted on will determine how vigorously it grows and how large it can get. In the case of apples, each variety is grafted on one or more of several rootstocks denoted standard (full size), semi-dwarf (60 % of standard) and dwarf (40 %). If you want your apple tree to double as a shade tree, you will select standard. In almost every other instance you should probably choose a dwarf or semi-dwarf, and if you are short of space and greedy for varieties (or hate ladders) you can seek out mini-dwarfs (20% of standard) and keep them below six feet.

Root-stock options for fruit trees other than apples are more limited. Most rootstocks are selected to produce a tree that can be kept around 15 feet, a convenient size for orchards. Some pears are available as dwarfs. Aside from ease of management, the advantage of dwarf trees is that, because they are less vigorous, they begin to bear fruit before standard size trees.

I ordered a couple of pie cherry trees this winter from Earth’s Rising Trees in Monroe (541-847-5950). This certified organic nursery will deliver apples, pears, peaches, cherries and plums to Corvallis, Eugene and Springfield for a small fee. Prices are very reasonable and quality appears to be excellent. Two popular Pacific Northwest sources for mail and online orders are Raintree Nursery and One Green World. In addition to the familiar fruit trees, berries and currants, they list many more unusual fruit-bearing plants, including natives.

Rachel Foster of Eugene is a garden consultant and author of All About Gardens, a selection of past Eugene Weekly columns. She can be reached at rfoster@efn.org
WINTER WORK
January, 2008

There are two months in the year when I regard gardening as strictly optional. One is August. The other is January. Unless you have fruit trees on a strict spray regimen it is hard to think of anything you really should do this month. But with filberts shaking out their catkins, bulbs emerging and witch hazels in full bloom it’s easy to develop a false sense of urgency, especially if the weather is nice. January sometimes produces a mild, dry spell to lure me outside. Some people just get cabin fever and even go out in the rain. You can count on the garden to provide some task worth doing when you can’t stand to be inside.

Take a look through your windows before you go out. Any moldering pot plants or hydrangea heads you would be better off without? Any storm-blown twigs or tree limbs spoiling the view? Once outside, check on plants and bulbs (both in and out of containers) that are protected from the rain. Water them if they look dry, but don’t water containers in freezing weather.

Liberate small bulbs from smothering tree leaves. Bulbs should be able to pierce leaf litter, I know, but some leaves, such as maple leaves of whatever size, can form tight, moisture-trapping sheets that easily defeat snowdrops, hardy cyclamen and early crocus.
Remove matted leaves from lawns, evergreen azaleas, gravel paths and your favorite mossy rocks. Leave leaf drifts where you can, however, because friendly insects, salamanders and other living things could be sheltering there.

Remove last year’s leaves from Lenten roses (Helleborus x hybridus) as soon as possible by cutting them close to the ground. They probably still look fine, I admit, but flowering stems are already lengthening and old leaves get in their way. If you commit to removing old foliage every winter, moreover, your hellebores could emerge through a drift of small bulbs. Pure white snowdrops make a wonderful contrast with the subdued colors of hellebore flowers.

Want to do some real gardening? You can transplant snowdrops and primroses just about any time if the soil is workable. You might even get a head start on some new raised beds. If necessary, stand on wooden planks to protect subterranean shoots and to avoid compacting damp soil. I use 8 or 10 inch boards, one inch thick, cut in handy four foot lengths.

The most important job you can tackle in winter - pruning deciduous shrubs - can be done in almost any weather, if you happen to be in the mood. Sure, you could leave it for a month or so, but there is so much else to do in February and March. Why not at least make a start on any roses, vines and shrubs that are easily accessible from paths or patios? Cut down summer-flowering clematis to one or two feet. Long, whippy new growths on wisteria should have been removed last summer, but you can do it now.

Remove spindly growth and dead wood from roses; then cut back hybrid teas by half or more, shrub roses by a third. Consider cutting out a few of the older branches that don’t have many healthy green stems emerging from them. Many people don’t prune their roses hard enough, in my opinion. They can take it! They will be healthier and more vigorous. Really! Totally neglected roses of almost any type can be cut down to about 15 inches. Reduce what’s left to 3-7 well-spaced limbs by removing dead and older wood. Prune the remaining stems just above an outward facing bud or leaf base.

Deciduous flowering shrubs that bloom in spring or early summer carry their flowers on twigs that grew last year. They are usually pruned right after they bloom: prune them now and you’ll lose some or all of their flowers. Many shrubs that bloom after mid-summer are slightly tender and are best pruned in March or April. That leaves cold-hardy woody plants that are grown for some feature other than their flowers (structure, screening, foliage or colorful stems) and shrubs so desperately in need of a trim you are ready to sacrifice bloom..

Pruning is a huge subject, and it’s a part of gardening that can be intimidating at first. That’s a pity, because it is also creative and should be extremely satisfying. It also happens to be something that you can easily learn from books. An excellent place to start is Cass Turnbull’s Guide to Pruning (Sasquatch Press). This is now in its second edition, but if you find the first edition in the library or a used bookstore, it will do just fine.

Rachel Foster of Eugene is a garden consultant and author of All About Gardens, a selection of past Eugene Weekly columns. She can be reached at rfoster@efn.org

Friday, December 19, 2008

LAST HURRAH
Camellias and Other Winter Plants
By Rachel Foster 12/13/07

I get a few questions every fall when camellias produce their improbably showy flowers. Aren't they a bit early, people ask? Well, no. Fall-blooming camellias (Camellia sasanqua) come out in October every year. Sometimes the show is cut short by an early freeze. This year, at least right here in town, the weather remained frost-free until mid-November, allowing us to get full value from the camellias and a couple of other broad-leafed evergreens – all of them excellent garden shrubs that just happen to bloom in autumn.
Camellias are certainly the grandest of these, with flowers in a variety of colors. White, apple-blossom pink-and-white, light pink and deep pink is the basic range. Some have double flowers a good two inches wide. Others are single, the flowers up to three inches across with a conspicuous cluster of yellow stamens. Late-blooming 'Yuletide' has deep red single flowers that are smaller than average but very abundant. A few varieties of C. sasanqua are lightly fragrant.
The plants vary in growth habit, too. Some are a little lax and mounding, while others (especially 'Yuletide') are boldly upright. None is quite as stiff and formal-looking, though, as spring-blooming Camellia japonica. Flowers on C. sasanqua are most prolific with at least half a day of sun, but the plants grow and bloom quite satisfactorily on a shady wall where most other plants would sulk. Some varieties are really easy to train on a wall or a trellis, and their moderate growth rate makes camellias a good choice for containers.
For serious October fragrance, nothing beats Osmanthus heterophyllus (holly osmanthus). The pure white flowers are tiny but numerous, and the scent will carry a long way on a warm fall afternoon. If you can, plant it somewhere sunny, where it will bloom abundantly and adopt a better form. Don't worry if a new plant fails to bloom: Flower production will increase as the plant matures.
There is nothing wrong with plain green holly osmanthus, but there are several varieties with distinctive foliage. The leaves of 'Purpureus' (which is said to be the hardiest cultivar) are maroon purple as they emerge, becoming dark green and lustrous. They show off the flowers nicely. 'Variegates' has leaves heavily marked with cream and is one of the best variegated evergreens for our area. 'Goshiki' has yellow-speckled leaves. All are relatively slow growers that can be controlled easily by pruning.
Strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) is a close relative of madrone, but this popular compact form is much smaller. It is not as small as books and labels say, however, so don't expect it to stay below six feet forever! Strawberry tree will adapt to sun or shade and becomes quite picturesque in old age if left unpruned when the shreddy, red-brown bark becomes more visible. This is a workhorse of a plant that may go un-noticed until October, when the bell-shaped, ivory flowers appear in clusters similar to those of madrone. It often sports, at the same time, spherical scarlet fruits that spent a whole year ripening.
Camellia and osmanthus are excellent as hedging plants, and unlike the popular cherry laurel and Portugal laurel, they are not (as far as I know) invasive. Strawberry tree looks best as a single specimen or planted in small groups, and old ones look marvelous under-planted with hardy cyclamen and perhaps the beautiful variegated form of evergreen Iris fetidissima -- both of which are, like strawberry tree, drought tolerant.
Winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) is an honorary evergreen. When the tiny leaves drop off in autumn the stems remain bright green. Thus it looks very much alive even before the bright yellow flowers appear. A hard frost can kill unopened buds, but the light freezes that are far more common in fall will damage only open flowers, leaving some buds to open over a period of many weeks. (My plants, like many others I know, bloom in November and December, but I'm told that some specimens don't bloom until after the new year.)
Most jasmines twine, but winter jasmine is a floppy shrub. It tolerates drought, neglect and a fair amount of shade. It is happy -- and spectacular -- sprawling over a bank or a retaining wall, but it is easy to train on a post, wall or trellis, where it takes up much less space. The flowers are scentless. You can't have everything. When you get back in the garden in early spring, cut off or shorten the stems that carried flowers. Prune as hard as you like: The long green shoots that grow during spring and summer will carry next winter's flowers.
FAIR TRADE
Putting Fungi to Work in the Garden
By Rachel Foster 11/8/07

Somewhere between 460 and 400 million years ago, plants made the leap to dry land. And it's possible they wouldn't have survived it without fungi.
Like modern plants, and like their aquatic relatives, the oldest-known land plants captured energy from sunlight to make simple sugars out of carbon dioxide and water. Their ancient fossils also indicate an association virtually identical with those that form between fungi and the roots of modern plants. The association is a mutually beneficial one, providing a two-way flow of nutrients: sugars made by the plant pass through the roots to the fungus, while water and inorganic nutrients collected by the fungus are transferred to the plant. The structure responsible for this exchange -- the colonized root -- is called a mycorrhiza (literally, fungus-root). Since mycorrhizae have been around as long as terrestrial plants, scientist theorize that their presence helped aquatic plants make the challenging transition to dry land.
The science of mycorrhizae has grown by leaps and bounds since I first learned about them, as I discovered at a recent talk by Jeff Anderson of Mycorrhizal Applications, Inc. (MAI), a company that distributes mycorrhizal inoculant in a variety of commercial products. For one thing, the mycorrhizal condition is now considered to be the rule, not the exception. Under natural conditions, an estimated 95 percent of all plants form mycorrhizal associations with one or more fungal species. (Only weeds, apparently, get by without them.)
Since fungi form networks far more extensive than most plant roots and can exploit smaller spaces in the soil, mycorrhizae increase the absorbative power of root systems by 10 to 1,000 times. They also improve the structure of soil and can release hard-to-access nutrients from the remains of living things. Research shows that mycorrhizal plants grow better, show greater disease resistance and are better able to tolerate environmental stresses such as drought.
Although most plants can form mycorrhizae, the necessary fungi are not always present. They are lost when soil is disturbed by tilling or building operations or subjected to excessive use of chemicals. Growers can now choose to boost the soil's mycorrhizal content with commercially available products, resulting in a reduced need of inputs such as fertilizer. Farmers can save money and produce healthier crops while reducing the level of damaging nitrates that leach into waterways. When I asked Anderson whether home gardeners could expect to benefit from adding mycorrhizae to their soil, he surmised that almost all would benefit. Only gardeners who have practiced organic gardening on their soil for years, combined with no-till or low-till methods, would likely observe little difference.
Most of MAI's business is in agriculture and forestry, Anderson says, but another important application is ecological restoration on damaged or naturally nutrient-poor soils such as sand. Whether you are gardening, farming or restoring ecosystems, a variety of products containing a mix of mycorrhizal species is available for projects on any scale. For best results, the goal is to place your "mycorrhizal propagules" close to the root system of the target plant. You can incorporate granules in the soil, put a tablet in each planting hole, water with soluble product or plant bare-root starts that have been dipped in gel. Some soil mixes and organic fertilizer blends contain mycorrhizae.
All or some of these products are available from Lane Forest Products and Gray's Garden Centers (look for the brand names Plant Success and EB Stone). Down to Earth sells a similar range of mycorrhizal additives under their own brand, and adds them to their own-brand potting soil and several fertilizer blends. One simple way to introduce the fungi is to use plant starts that have been raised in soil mixes that contain them. Many nurseries now use soil mixes (from Lane Forest Products, for example) that incorporate mycorrhizal fungi.
I switched to Down to Earth potting soil a few years ago. Within a week, I noticed such prodigious root development that I've stuck with the brand ever since. Recently, as veteran vegetable gardener and Down to Earth employee Karl Haga showed me some other mycorrhizal products at Down to Earth, I asked if he ever got feedback from customers. "Oh yeah! People think they're great," he said. "Do you want a personal endorsement?" He went on to describe an experiment with four pepper plants, two with, two without a single application of granules. The "with" plants were "one third greener, one third bigger and one third more productive." Haga recommends putting granules in the soil at planting time and then watering in Soluble Root Growth Enhancer two weeks before flowering. For more information about mycorrhizae, visit www.mycorrhizae.comand www.plantrevolution.com
HIP HIP HURRAY
Think of This Hardy Rose as a Shrub

By Rachel Foster 10/11/07

My favorite rose has no scent that I've noticed. The flowers, single and a bit small, are not my favorite color, and their bloom lasts only a few weeks. So why do I think you might want to grow this plant? Think of it as a shrub, rather than a rose, to re-align your expectations. There are two botanical names for it, Rosa glauca and Rosa rubrifolia. I am not sure which is currently favored by botanists, but I call it by the name I learned first and consider most descriptive: R. glauca. The adjective glaucus, from the Greek, is defined as bluish gray or bluish green. Bluish, greenish gray describes the leaves perfectly. Rubrifolia means red-leafed, which is a bit of a stretch, although the leaves are purplish when they first expand, especially in sun. The midribs in the leaves are also red, and so are the young stems.
The color of the leaves, however you perceive it, is this shrub's number one attraction, but there are other things to like about it. Five-petaled flowers, though small, occur in clusters and are numerous enough to make a good showing. Each petal is a strong pink, fading to white towards the center of the flower, creating an interesting effect that is somehow lively. Later, in August through October, comes an impressive show of fruit (called hips, in roses) that start out brown and slowly turn rust-red. All this time the lovely foliage continues in un-roselike good health. You won't see much alteration in the leaves until October, when they fade to creamy yellow.
Rosa glauca will grow in any reasonably bright location. Specimens growing in full sun have the best show of flowers and fruit, while plants in light shade have the most beautiful, glaucus leaves. The plant grows to 6 or 7 feet in an arching form that allows you to underplant it with smaller shrubs or (for instance) billowing hardy geraniums and catnip. Removing older stems from time to time keeps it from turning into a big round bush, and pruning is followed by a flush of gorgeously colored new growth. Some gardeners remove most of the older growth every year to promote long shoots with especially luxuriant blue leaves. You won't get as much bloom or fruit this way though.
This is a versatile plant seems as much at home in stylish gardens with New Zealand flax, honey bush and canna lilies as it does in lower key company of Aster frikartii and daylilies. I am currently trying to come up with a way to combine it with white or light pink Japanese anemones in my garden. Not particular as to soil, this rose, like many species roses, is rather drought tolerant. It is nearly impervious to disease in most gardens, even when stressed. This drought resistance suits it to combining with such xeric looking plants as yucca, silver Senecio 'Sunshine' and tall sedums. Crimson barberry picks up the red of the stems and midribs nicely.
There are, of course, other roses that may produce a showy crops of hips. Most have single or semi-double flowers, not the fully double flowers of the hybrid tea rose. Two standouts are pink-flowered Rosa rugosa 'Frau Dagmar Hastrup,' with green crinkled leaves and big, shiny red hips on a compact plant; and the towering R. moyesii, with red flowers and elongated fruit an inch and a half long. Roses that bloom only, or mostly, once a year as old roses, ramblers and many species do are good candidates. Our own wild native roses, such as Nootka, bald-hip and clustered rose, have quite decorative hips.
Hybrid musk roses, bred in the first third of the 20th century for recurrent bloom, are well known for producing a late flush of bloom in September. Some are also reliable fruiters, one of the best being 'Penelope,' whose hips are large, coral pink and last a long time. 'Darlow's Enigma' is a tall, wonderfully healthy, cream-flowered shrub rose or climber that originated by chance in Eugene's Owens Rose Garden and is now known nationwide. It shares some of the qualities of hybrid musks and is often listed with them although it is much more fragrant and more continuously in bloom than most. 'Darlow's Enigma' delivers sprays of salmon-colored, tiny hips that hang on well into winter.
You won't, of course, get rose hips if you deadhead too assiduously. Fortunately, most good hip producers have the sort of flowers that drop their petals, so you don't have to endure dead flowers for very long. Some roses can be deadheaded after the first heavy bloom and still produce hips from whatever flowers come later (my strategy with hybrid musk roses) though you won't get quite the same result as if you postpone all pruning until February.
HOT STUFF
Chilis are Coming on Strong
By Rachel Foster 9/20/07

When I visited Todd Berger and Annie Paschall earlier this summer to talk about peaches (EW, 7/12), Todd led me through the greenhouse to show off row upon row of vibrantly healthy pepper plants. "You should do a story about chilis," he said. Then I learned that the chilis would be coming on strong when his Suncrest peaches ripened. Need I say more?
Chili peppers clearly have an important role in Todd and Annie's diet. They grows four varieties of the habanero type alone: flavorful but ultra-mild Trinidad Perfume, yellow when ripe; Habanero, medium hot, orange in color; Hot Paper Lantern, with pointy, red fruit; and rounded Caribbean Red. Both these reds are hot. "Caribbean Red is the hotter of the two" Todd says, "but Hot Paper Lantern is much more productive in cooler climates than other habaneros."
Manzano is a specialty chili pepper, similar in heat to a serrano. Todd doesn't remember where he got the seed. (Most of his peppers are open-pollinated, not hybrid, and he saves seed from year to year.) With fuzzy leaves and purple flowers, the tall, open-growing Manzano plants stood out from all the other peppers in the greenhouse. Todd likes to eat the globe-shaped fruits when they are half green and half yellow. His favorite way to treat fresh jalapenos and Manzanos is to core them, taking out the stem end and seeds, "chuck in a chunk of feta cheese" and grill them slowly over low to medium heat until the skin is black and puffy. Peel back the skin and eat. Wow. Todd has made some ingenious wire racks to hold these little peppers so the cheese won't fall out when it melts.
The medium hot poblano (or ancho) is a mainstay of Mexican food. While still green, poblanos are used for stuffing. Dried poblanos are known as anchos, and they are ground to make chili powders. Todd grows the sweet, thick-fleshed hybrid Tiburon from Johnny's Selected Seeds.
While I admired the peppers on the vine, Annie put some anaheims on the grill. She doesn't care for very hot peppers, but she really likes anaheim chilis, which pack just a little bit of heat. "I put them in everything," she said. Todd grows Numex Joe E Packer from Johnny's. It has a thicker wall, he told me, so you get more weight with less work. When the skin on the anaheims was partially charred on each side, Todd transferred them to a steel bowl and covered them with a cloth to steam. After a brief cooling period he demonstrated how the skin just slips off these grilled peppers. The grilled anaheims were destined to be pureed, frozen in ice-cube trays and the blocks stored frozen, in quart plastic bags.
When it comes to sweet peppers, Todd prefers Italians to bell peppers. He grows three varieties that ripen (in this order) to red, orange and gold. Annie has already been putting up red and orange Italian sweets. She doesn't bother to peel these thin-skinned peppers.They are hard to peel and don't really need it, she says. She pickles them in jars in a mix of vinegar, sugar and water with some garlic cloves. Pickling is easier than the pressure canning that this low-acid item would require, and she and Todd enjoy the acid tang.
Todd also grows a ribbed, flattened true pimento named Round of Hungary (it looks like a miniature red pumpkin) with very thick flesh. "You can grill pimentos, too," he said, "and they will peel up fairly easily." I can vouch for this. A complete novice, I successfully grilled and peeled a couple of these at home for a lentil salad. I thought they were about the best-tasting peppers I have eaten.
Todd and Annie's peppers grow in a big hoop house covered with two layers of translucent horticultural plastic, inflated with a small blower (the motor is smaller than a hair dryer.) Inflation keeps the layers apart, providing insulation, and also prevents the plastic slapping in the wind. The soil is prepared with composted chicken manure. The plants are fed twice more during the growing season, with seaweed/fish emulsion and worm compost. Irrigation is accomplished with "leaky hoses" on a timer, set for 20 minutes a day. The results are astounding -- I've never seen larger or more productive pepper plants.
If you don't have a greenhouse, Todd suggests trying plastic mulch. (Red colored plastic is supposed to reflect back the red spectrum to help the fruit ripen.) But if you are serious about growing your own food, he says, you should consider a greenhouse. "It makes such a difference."
FITTING IN
Whitey Lueck Strives for 'Plausible Landscapes'

By Rachel Foster 8/9/07

When it comes to "green" building, naturalist and landscape designer Whitey Lueck thinks there is too much emphasis on the buildings and not enough on the land. "The parts of the yard that are not in food production should be turned back to native Willamette Valley plants, in my view," he said, addressing a recent sustainability tour in south Eugene. The group had stopped at a house Lueck landscaped a few years ago, mostly with native woody plants: ash, Douglas hawthorn and red alder, with understory stuff like thimbleberry and vine maple. He retained the grading left by the contractor, and except for adding a lot of leaves, he did not modify the rather heavy soil. Lueck prefers to avoid "heavy handed horticulture" and minimizes the amount of materials brought in from outside.
People love to visit natural areas and think they are beautiful, Lueck likes to point out, but at home they think their yards should look quite different. In spite of a horticultural background, he has managed to put aside this "two heads mindset." "There is only one Willamette Valley in the world," he says, "and when we plant non-native vegetation we displace the native plants and make it look like any other place." Lueck would prefer to see our front yards look like the Willamette Valley, with food gardening and ornamentals confined to the back yard. While it isn't always possible to replace what existed before, he strives to create what he calls "plausible landscapes." His own yard is an excellent example of the principle, put to work in an established, older neighborhood in southeast Eugene.
Lueck's modest house and yard could serve as a model for a low-impact urban lifestyle that makes room for nature. In fact the yard, complete with interpretive signage, is always open to anyone who cares to wander through. After doing this a couple of times myself, I met Lueck there to talk about his approach to domestic landscapes. I noticed obvious signs of active gardening: Clumps of Douglas aster and blue wild rye had been trimmed back and the clippings deposited neatly around the plants. I commented that his approach to both design and management was different from that of many other native gardeners. "I do want to tend and have control," he conceded. "I call it orchestration."
There are many native shrubs and perennials in Lueck's front yard, but after the big, double-trunked redwood by the street, the most conspicuous component is the fast-growing aspen grove, planted to provide cooling shade for the west-facing house. Why aspens, I asked, and are they really native to the valley? Apparently there are two groves of aspen near Peoria, Ore., but they make no seed, and cuttings have been unsuccessful. Lueck's trees came from northern Idaho, courtesy of Seven Oaks Nursery. "They tolerate heavy soils, wet feet in winter and summer drought," he explained, so aspens grow where red alder or Oregon ash would show drought stress. With gray-green trunks and clean looking foliage, they are also very beautiful.
Lueck has influenced other gardeners in his neighborhood to plant aspen trees, and all their neighbors may have aspens now soon because suckers can pop up anywhere. Lueck originally planted five aspens in front of his house. Now several have root sprouts, and they grow quickly. When individuals get too big, he will cut them down. (Mysteriously, cut stumps don't sprout!) His 7-year-old landscape is very much a work in progress. "I'm not sure what direction I want to go -- all broadleaf? Super drought tolerant conifers?" That would not include the 50-year-old redwood. "It would not be healthy if I didn't water it twice a month in summer," he said. The rest of the front garden gets watered once a month, and this is enough to keep many plants green. Lueck has no problem with monthly waterings. After all, he argues, it can and does occasionally rain in summer.
The little front lawn of grass, prunella, clover, yarrow and other things is cut with a push mower. Non-native lawn daisies are permitted here, and there are several familiar cottage garden flowers in his food garden. "They are here if they want to be," he said, "and they are easy to pull out." Beyond the food garden and chicken house is a patch of meadow that Lueck has kept because it contains camas bulbs. He's added native milkweed, and this year he's using the leaves to raise monarch caterpillars in jars. The meadow is cut once a year, a little at a time, from early July into mid-August.
EAT A PEACH
Local, Old-style Peaches Replete With Flavor

By Rachel Foster 7/12/07

When I asked a peach-growing friend which variety has the best flavor, he scarcely gave me time to finish the sentence. "Sun Crest," he said. "Sun Crest," he repeated, shaking his head as though denying even the possibility of a contest. Sun Crest is a variety you'll never find in a supermarket. It's an old peach that's fragrant and bursting with flavor, and so juicy you almost need to eat it outside and take a shower afterwards.
Sun Crest is also a peach that doesn't suit today's mass market. It is golden yellow when ripe, rather than all red, the color that apparently signals ripeness to The Consumer. Worse still, it's a soft fleshed peach with almost no shelf-life. I first learned about Sun Crest peaches from Epitaph for a Peach, a poignant little book by David Mas Masumoto. It describes his efforts to save the last of his family's Sun Crest orchards from the bulldozer by converting to organic culture and searching for a specialized market niche. Fruit brokers told him to get rid of the trees. Better peaches have come along, they assured him, "peaches that have fuller color and last for months in storage." Well, that explains those red but mealy and tasteless things you so often get at the grocery store.
If you are growing peaches for yourself and a few friends, you don't have to worry too much about shelf life. Todd Berger is a dedicated home gardener -- he and his wife Annie grow half of their food. Their 48 fruit trees include many peaches and nectarines that ripen over a period of more than two months. Sun Crest is one of the later varieties to ripen, but by the time this goes to press he'll probably be harvesting Early Redhaven, his earliest peach. Standard Redhavens come in about two weeks later. The season closes in September with Elbertas.
Growing peaches and nectarines in this part of the world is not a piece of cake. The trees are susceptible to peach leaf curl and brown rot, two fungal diseases that are exacerbated by wet spring weather. Peach leaf curl thickens and distorts the leaves, which then discolor and fall off. It affects almost all peach trees that are not kept out of the rain, and it can be fatal to the tree. "If people want to grow peaches, they are going to have to spray," Berger told me. "You have to manage your trees to get a successful crop -- and they can produce every year if you do it right."
Berger begins his spray program with Bordeaux mixture (copper sulfate and lime) as soon as leaves turn and begin to drop in early fall. He repeats the process every six weeks for a total of three times during the winter. In spring he sprays with wettable sulfur against brown rot, starting at full bloom and continuing every seven days until harvest. "Keep an eye on the fruit," he said, especially nectarines. The smooth skin makes them very susceptible to brown rot. He also uses Tanglefoot, applied on a band of plastic wrap, to stop ants crawling up the trunks.
Peaches and nectarines require more pruning than other fruit trees because they bear fruit on one-year old wood. Sunset Western Garden Book suggests removing as much as two-thirds of the growth each year to encourage plenty of young growth. In winter Berger does some heavy pruning for structure. In spring, he thins both new and year-old growths for proper spacing and stronger branch structure. He'll continue thinning branches as he thins the developing fruit, which must be done to achieve high quality peaches and to avoid breakage. Berger reckons he's removed 80-90 percent of this year's abundant fruit set. It's not just about spacing: "You have to look at every branch" he said, "and ask yourself how many peaches it can support."
A couple of weeks before harvest, the branches of each tree are roped together for support. The only tree roped in the orchard when I visited was a single Early Redhaven, which was carrying a big, beautiful crop of glowing red peaches. "This is a good one for home gardeners," Berger said. "It's easy to grow and tasty." He tests the peaches every day for ripeness; this variety is deceptive, turning red well before they are fully ripe, which is the way he wants them. There's a product that's supposed to boost the sugar content, but if you are growing peaches for yourself, Berger suggests you just leave them to ripen on the tree -- that's the best way to get lots of sugar.
Masimoto did save his peaches, by the way. The growing popularity of direct sales and the demand for organic fruit -- and no doubt some nostalgia for good old fashioned peach flavor -- caught up with him just in time.
HEUCHERA HEAVEN
Colorful Plants Love Pots

By Rachel Foster 5/10/07

Now why didn't I think of that? I opened a British gardening book the other day and saw a mass of chocolate cosmos growing in a pot. Chocolate cosmos is a great candidate for container culture: It is slightly tender, a bit of a specialty and not always easy to grow. I have killed more chocolate cosmos than I care to remember. My guess is, it's a plant that likes what Brits call "a warm, light soil," something I definitely don't have. In a pot, I could give it the conditions it prefers and keep it nearby, the better to enjoy its peculiar fragrance and subtle coloring.
Pot culture is ideal for other plants, of course. Heuchera, for example. Old fashioned garden coralbells, useful for filling in a border edge, had more or less green leaves and showy red or pink flowers. The flowers of many new heuchera varieties are pretty forgettable. Foliage is the point, and we are offered a torrent of pricey plants with wildly colorful leaves. If you can afford them, they are irresistible, but they can also be maddeningly short-lived in gardens. All the ones I have tried, however, have something in common: They are far happier in pots than in my rather dense, moisture-retentive garden soil.
For years I thought heucheras needed lots of moisture, but books said otherwise. I finally figured out that the plants in my garden had poorly developed shallow root systems, and that's why they threatened to poop out in hot weather. As pot plants they are, in fact, reasonably drought tolerant, and like so many plants that prefer exceptional drainage, they also grow better in pots. If you have the sort of garden soil you can plunge a hand into to pull a weed out by the roots, heucheras will no doubt love your garden. Otherwise you may be better off planting them in a rock garden or raised bed, or in containers.
Heuchera heaven is probably a well-watered pot with a bit of shade in the afternoon, but some varieties perform very well in less than perfect conditions. The toughest make a reasonable showing in my best garden soil, though no amount of coddling can produce in the ground the results I get in pots. Well-grown heucheras, most of them, revel in sun, flowering freely on long, strong stems and developing their finest foliage color. In varieties with chartreuse, yellow or orange coloring, however, partial shade brings out the best color in the leaves.
The old standby 'Palace Purple' (the plant that started all this foliage color stuff) is also better in light shade, where it makes a great container plant. Shop around for specimens with no green or olive cast to the leaves. A good clone has heavily textured leaves, glossy when new, dark maroon on top and reddish purple underneath. (I saw some good ones recently at Fox Hollow Creek Nursery, 28th and Friendly, off the Dari Mart parking lot.) 'Palace Purple' is more evergreen than most heuchs. Its performance in cold weather pots is outdone only by Heuchera americana 'Dale's Strain,' with green, red and pewter leaves that darken dramatically in winter.
Newer foliage colors can be quite amazing. 'Lime Rickey,' 'Marmalade' and 'Frosted Violet' -- the names speak for themselves. In the garden, I choose proven performers in slightly less eye-catching shades: 'Mint Frost,' 'Plum Pudding,' 'Pewter Veil' and 'Green Spice' are all strong growers. Given suitable soil, heucheras are relatively trouble free. Root weevil larvae sometimes chew off the roots. The top growth can be rescued, if you find it in time, by embedding the pieces in new soil. Heucheras benefit from frequent division in any case, and it's easy: From late winter through early spring, cut off elongated stems, trim off the lower leaves and plant the stems in fresh soil amended with a little all-purpose organic fertilizer, one that contains lime. You will have new plants in no time.
The entire genus Heuchera and several close relatives are native to North America, most of them here in the West. Small-flowered alum root (Heuchera micrantha, a parent of 'Palace Purple') is found in rocky places in the Willamette Valley and the surrounding mountains. Fringecup (Tellima grandiflora) is almost ubiquitous in some gardens, an obliging placeholder for finer things to come and a nice plant in itself. Tiarella, a local forest genus, has been hybridized almost as busily as heuchera, producing some charming, colorful small plants for moist, shady gardens. Fancy tiarellas (and the intergeneric hybrid, heucherella) are useful container accents for shade.